Who is Barbara Karinska
- About the Ballet
The Couture Behind the Curtain
Barbara Karinska stands among the great visionaries who shaped ballet in the 20th Century. Born in Kharkiv, Ukraine, she began her career designing embroidery for Russian aristocrats before emigrating to Paris, where her craftsmanship caught the attention of artists, filmmakers, and eventually George Balanchine. Their collaboration would redefine how ballet looks and moves.
Balanchine recognized in Karinska a kindred spirit, an artist who understood how fabric could move with and enhance choreography. Together at New York City Ballet, they revolutionized costuming for dance, where she went on to design the costumes for 75 of his works. Balanchine said, “I attribute to [Karinska] fifty percent of the success of my ballets to those that she has dressed.
Her designs remain benchmarks of innovation, including the “powder puff” tutu: a new design that was lighter and freer than its classical predecessors, allowing dancers to move with unprecedented clarity all while showcasing the choreography. (Pro tip: Keep your eye out for her infamous powder puff tutus in action in both Diamonds and Stars and Stripes!)
Karinska’s influence reached beyond the ballet stage. In 1948, she earned an Academy Award for Color Costume Design–the inaugural year of the category–for her lavish, historically inspired costumes in Joan of Arc, starring Ingrid Bergman.
Her attention to detail was notable. As Balanchine Repetiteur Sandra Jennings remembers, “Madame Karinska was extraordinary. We’d go for fittings and it felt magical—people gluing stones onto costumes, Karinska herself was so chic with her lavender hair and Chanel suit, always determined to make us look our best. She added special touches, even unique tiaras for each of us. Mr. Balanchine was deeply interested in costumes too. He wanted everything to serve the art.”
Karinska’s artistry endures as Balanchine’s ballets continue to be performed across the globe, her costumes illuminating the movement, the music, and the spirit of Balanchine himself.
See her costumes in action in all three ballets in the upcoming Balanchine: Father of American Ballet.
Written by, Olivia Ramsay
